Epilog 2014

 

 As all journeys must, this one has come to an end.  My “Ride Across America” took root in the Vietnam experience.  Vietnam was a pivot point that shaped many lives and I am no exception…never fully trusting happiness, I am driven, unrelenting, uncompromising, and too often lured to adrenaline- charged endeavors.  In short, I can be difficult.  These traits have been a heavy burden for my wife who remains steadfastly faithful in her love for me.  She grasps and does not scorn my will to live life unrestrained in a manic fashion nor begrudge those times when I seek solitude.  When I venture off alone, she appreciates that I am simply hitting life’s reset button.  She worries but never thwarts these endeavors and remains forever supportive.  Together we have discovered the power of love and together raised two incredibly high achieving daughters who love us dearly.  Without her support this journey would never have occurred.

 Bizarre as it seems, I flew to war on a commercial airliner with amenities served by good-natured and pretty stewardesses.  Transported to Long Bien, I was nearly hijacked by a unit to which I was not assigned but who sought to secure live bodies to fill their depleted ranks.  By grace, an officer interceded and demanded to see my orders and put a stop to this larceny.  Redirected to my intended unit, it was there that I met, soldiered, laughed and went to war with the nine souls who accompanied me on my “Ride Across America” some 45 years after my return from Vietnam.  Their memories were my only companions.  Too early, their lives and futures were the causalities of that war, leaving only an empty seat in the hearts of those who loved them.  Taking time to write their stories, describe their personalities, how, when, and where they were lost was my personal tribute to each.  These I carried in my saddlebags and upon completion of the trip lovingly cast them onto the “Great Beyond” with the aid of helium inflatables.  From our destination in Seattle, their stories were carried with the winds eastward in hopes that they might again reach our point of departure…the Vietnam Memorial. An accompanying note was enclosed: “If you find this packet, carried by bicycle from Washington, D.C., to Seattle and then sent aloft by balloon, you will read the stories of my friends.  Take a moment to absorb their sacrifice and reflect on the absurdity of their loss.  If you are moved by their stories, return them to our starting point…the Vietnam Memorial.  While there, seek your reflection on the polished granite walls and let the solemnity of that moment counsel your thoughts…But for the grace of God.”

 Stephan E. Speer, Staff Sergeant, United States Army, 1968 - 1970

Whidbey Island to Mukilteo, WA - the mainland and THE END

I awoke early after a great night's sleep at Rhododendron State Park. After breakfast of coffee and Top Ramen, I just laid back and listened to the wind blowing through the pines and watched the fog roll in from the ocean. So peaceful, so pleasant, and so nice to have the park all to myself.

After a short ride I found myself at Greenback Store and Grill where I had a great breakfast and a great conversation with Brian Cedar. About my age, he was semiretired when he and his wife Nancy decided to relocate to Whidbey Island and reopen Greenback Store and Grill.

Brian talked about the island, the history of the store, and the life that he and his wife had led.  Their daughter, who is autistic, played a role in their decision in that they decided to open a family business where all could participate and contribute with the skills available to them. Contented with their decision, living in a beautiful area, it was great company.

Greenback Store and Grill has been in continuous operation since 1904. One of the oldest in Washington. The proprietor, Brian Cedar, came out of semi retirement to own and operate this store as a family project. Blessed with an autistic daughter, Brian and his wife Nancy made the decision to take on a project that would not only give them pleasure but would help their young daughter achieve her full potential. I spent about an hour talking with Brian about life in general, about autism, and the path life takes us on. Brian is just one of many of the wonderful people that I've met across this nation that make it such a great country. If you would like to read more about Brian, his family, and his daughter go to: Facebook.com/greenback grille. Brian and Madison (who works for Brian) are pictured here and if you want a great breakfast wrap, visit Madison at the Greenback Store and Grill on Whidbey Island.

When I was leaving, the bakery goods began to arrive! Fresh-baked with an aroma so wonderful it makes your knees weak; these culinary delights were a sight to behold!

Stacy Habeck, owner and operator of the Screaming Banshee Bakery. She has a truck load of her organic goodies; needs an armed guard to protect her wares.

 

The rest of the trip down the island had me confronting a series of climbs that were much steeper than anticipated. Knowing that it was my last day, I was able to prevail. The ferry ride was a delight and a wonderful way to end the trip.

 

  

Kevin, my son-in-law, picked me up for the short ride to their home. After a wonderful visit, a great bath, and some good food, it was time to relax.

I am so pleased that I have found a good home for Traveler.  Kevin will use it to commute to his teaching position at Seattle University. Not only did it convey me across the country, but it now will convey my son-in-law to school where he will mold young minds into mature and responsible adults. I can think of no better home for Traveler.

Milliliter Lightstation

 

Objective Achieved !

I left Concrete, Washington, early this morning and proceeded on highway 20. Deer and elk were abundant and in one instance, when five bull elk were crossing the road, they collided with a small vehicle. There seemingly was no serious damage although I did see the wheels go over one of the elk's legs. Seemingly no worse for wear, it jumped right up and ran off... perhaps since the car was so light it did no serious damage. It was a very close encounter and I'm sure the driver, a young girl, will not soon forget the incident. SLOW DOWN!

First viewing of the Pacific

 

Strait of Juan de Fuca

From Concrete it was on to Sedro-Woolley, Bayview and then my objective, Anacortes. From Anacortes I proceeded on to Whidbey Island where I had stunning views of not only the island itself but the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Saratoga Passage, Admiralty Inlet, and Mt. Rainier. Beautiful country and tonight I'm staying in Rhododendron Park. This was not my original destination, but it was too pretty to pass up and I have the entire campground to myself. Tomorrow I will ride to the ferry, go to the mainland, and meet up with my daughter and her family. That will mark the end of the trip. Very satisfying!

The prize for completing the trip

Tomorrow, Traveler and I will hang up our spurs. She has been a trustworthy, reliable bicycle throughout our trip across United States.

 Last campsite of the trip

My cocoon

 My kitchen sink

  Last dinner of the trip




Thought I would take a picture of breakfast on my last day. It's pretty typical of what I ate while on the road when traveling alone. On those occasions when there was a restaurant close by I had eggs, sausage, hashbrowns and all those wonderful things. Just something to fill the void was all that was needed and the stove offered warmth on cold mornings. 

Campground East of Diablo Lake to Concrete, Washington

After awaking from a near comatose state after all of yesterday's passes, I could hardly walk.  It is not that my legs were particularly sore, was more like they were stumps bracing my body up!  I started a breakfast of freeze dried eggs...YUCK!  I made coffee for the Goggin family and they reciprocated by feeding me pancakes...YUM!!!
After passing through the towns of Diablo and Newhalem I arrived in Marblemount and consumed a HUGE breakfast which I followed up with two servings of freshly baked, warm, blackberry pie served with ice cream. I was about to order a third helping of blackberry pie when the waitress made the comment that she hadn't seen anybody eat that much food in a long time... I sheepishly paid my bill and wished that I had gone ahead and ordered a third helping of pie!!  It seems with all this peddling, I just can't get enough food into my body. Between the need for calories and hydration, my poor body is taking a beating.
I bicycled on to Rockport where there were no services, so had to travel on to Concrete. Very hot and exhausting day so I did less than 50 miles. Checked into a hotel, washed my clothes in a creek, will go to bed as soon as they're dry, and I plan to hit the road very early tomorrow to avoid the heat. It is 59 miles to Anacortes, where I plan to head south on Highway 20 to Whidbey Island, where I will catch the ferry to the mainland just north of Seattle. At that point my adventure will be over. So it is Anacortes tomorrow and completion of the trip the day after.

Speerson's Chinese Laundry

Okanogan through North Cascade Mountains

Carlton Complex Fire, Washington
59% contained 250,514 acres burned

It has been an incredible couple of days. I was able to arrange a shuttle through the fire area. The devastation was stunning and ranchers took tremendous losses in livestock and buildings. Unfortunately, there's a lot of bitterness because firefighters were limited to certain areas in which they could combat fires. As a result, I'm told some disobeyed orders and fought the fires anyway while others were not able to do so. In any event, the destruction is terrible and I'm not really certain what actually transpired with regards to the politics of firefighting. It is such a sore topic that I was reluctant to bring it up.

The destructive forces of the fires are simply amazing. The fire is still only 55% contained, hot embers remain, this coupled with hot weather and winds places a very high risk of flareups. Forest Service told me they could not stop me on this portion of the trip but highly recommended that I avoid it. I did not avoid it but I did catch a shuttle.  Once through the area there was Washington Pass, Rainy Pass, and high winds once I got to the other side. I actually had to pedal downhill and stopped to camp at the very first campground I came to. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking! This is one of the prettiest areas I've ever visited, whether on bicycle or in an automobile.

My trip is coming to a close, and I expect that I only have two days left before I am in Seattle. Through the kindness and hospitality of so many, I truly have fallen in love with our country again. America is alive and well!

Lee and Cheryl

Nurses from Tucson, AZ, assisting with health needs during the fire.  Winthrop, WA

North Cascade Mountains, WA

Continues to be a hard grind but BEAUTIFUL!!!

 The wind is blowing so hard that it requires peddling DOWN HILL!!  Darn!

Not as high as Sherman but STEEP!

RAINY PASS ~ the a last one...ON TO THE COAST!!

Elise

 She keeps the gardens beautiful in Newhalem

Unbounded beauty on the road to Marblemount,WA

Skagit River

 Now this model has one burner that is so efficient that it burns what is on the bottom and leaves the top cold, giving that cold crunchy effect that still burns your tongue.  No amenities up here...it is all freeze dried meals...I'm down to two remaining...gourmet dog food or kibbles...which shall it be?  ...hey!!
...is that a juicy chipmunk over by my bike??  "Here little chipmunk, come to daddy..."

The Goggin Family

 My neighbors at Lake Diablo

Omak Rock

Steady as the Middle East

Republic to Omak, Washington

It was a brutal 66 miles from Republic to Omak.  My day started at 4:30 AM leaving Republic and tackling the Wauconda Pass first thing in the morning. Brutally cold, brutally steep, and incredibly beautiful until starting down the other side of the pass.  

Shortly after summitting I entered the little town of Wauconda...consisting of one building:  The Wauconda Cafe and Store where I met Debbie Epps and Maddie Love who opened their store early in order to make breakfast for me. Ladies, you're the greatest!
 

Reg and Gina

From there I continued on to Tonasket where it grew consistently warmer as I was drawn deeper into the Okanogan Valley where I met two teachers motorcycling down from Canada.  Great people, and they made the comment that they always like traveling in the United States because people are so outgoing and it is easy to strike up conversations, which is seemingly not the case in Canada. From my Canadian experience I encountered no such problem, but then again I can strike up a conversation with a lamp post.
 

Riverside, WA

The Okanogan Valley is known for its orchards and high temperatures.  I for one can attest to the high temperatures. It was hot, hot, hot!  By the time I reached Riverside I was out of water, out of energy, and on fire! It was a tough 10 miles to bicycle on to Omak where I am staying at the Stampede Motel for a whopping $39 a night. Clean, well run, with accommodating and helpful proprietors, this is the best deal in town! Perfect spot for the night after a very hard day. Wish me luck as I will be traveling through the fire zone tomorrow. I'm attempting to locate a shuttle because with hot weather, high winds, and glowing embers another fire is a real possibility, as I learned from my firefighting days in Colorado during summer break from University.

Veterans Memorial in Tonasket

I'm getting close to my end point... I feel like an old nag who has the bit in her mouth and is heading for the barn....