Okanogan through North Cascade Mountains

Carlton Complex Fire, Washington
59% contained 250,514 acres burned

It has been an incredible couple of days. I was able to arrange a shuttle through the fire area. The devastation was stunning and ranchers took tremendous losses in livestock and buildings. Unfortunately, there's a lot of bitterness because firefighters were limited to certain areas in which they could combat fires. As a result, I'm told some disobeyed orders and fought the fires anyway while others were not able to do so. In any event, the destruction is terrible and I'm not really certain what actually transpired with regards to the politics of firefighting. It is such a sore topic that I was reluctant to bring it up.

The destructive forces of the fires are simply amazing. The fire is still only 55% contained, hot embers remain, this coupled with hot weather and winds places a very high risk of flareups. Forest Service told me they could not stop me on this portion of the trip but highly recommended that I avoid it. I did not avoid it but I did catch a shuttle.  Once through the area there was Washington Pass, Rainy Pass, and high winds once I got to the other side. I actually had to pedal downhill and stopped to camp at the very first campground I came to. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking! This is one of the prettiest areas I've ever visited, whether on bicycle or in an automobile.

My trip is coming to a close, and I expect that I only have two days left before I am in Seattle. Through the kindness and hospitality of so many, I truly have fallen in love with our country again. America is alive and well!

Lee and Cheryl

Nurses from Tucson, AZ, assisting with health needs during the fire.  Winthrop, WA

North Cascade Mountains, WA

Continues to be a hard grind but BEAUTIFUL!!!

 The wind is blowing so hard that it requires peddling DOWN HILL!!  Darn!

Not as high as Sherman but STEEP!

RAINY PASS ~ the a last one...ON TO THE COAST!!

Elise

 She keeps the gardens beautiful in Newhalem

Unbounded beauty on the road to Marblemount,WA

Skagit River

 Now this model has one burner that is so efficient that it burns what is on the bottom and leaves the top cold, giving that cold crunchy effect that still burns your tongue.  No amenities up here...it is all freeze dried meals...I'm down to two remaining...gourmet dog food or kibbles...which shall it be?  ...hey!!
...is that a juicy chipmunk over by my bike??  "Here little chipmunk, come to daddy..."

The Goggin Family

 My neighbors at Lake Diablo

Omak Rock

Steady as the Middle East

Republic to Omak, Washington

It was a brutal 66 miles from Republic to Omak.  My day started at 4:30 AM leaving Republic and tackling the Wauconda Pass first thing in the morning. Brutally cold, brutally steep, and incredibly beautiful until starting down the other side of the pass.  

Shortly after summitting I entered the little town of Wauconda...consisting of one building:  The Wauconda Cafe and Store where I met Debbie Epps and Maddie Love who opened their store early in order to make breakfast for me. Ladies, you're the greatest!
 

Reg and Gina

From there I continued on to Tonasket where it grew consistently warmer as I was drawn deeper into the Okanogan Valley where I met two teachers motorcycling down from Canada.  Great people, and they made the comment that they always like traveling in the United States because people are so outgoing and it is easy to strike up conversations, which is seemingly not the case in Canada. From my Canadian experience I encountered no such problem, but then again I can strike up a conversation with a lamp post.
 

Riverside, WA

The Okanogan Valley is known for its orchards and high temperatures.  I for one can attest to the high temperatures. It was hot, hot, hot!  By the time I reached Riverside I was out of water, out of energy, and on fire! It was a tough 10 miles to bicycle on to Omak where I am staying at the Stampede Motel for a whopping $39 a night. Clean, well run, with accommodating and helpful proprietors, this is the best deal in town! Perfect spot for the night after a very hard day. Wish me luck as I will be traveling through the fire zone tomorrow. I'm attempting to locate a shuttle because with hot weather, high winds, and glowing embers another fire is a real possibility, as I learned from my firefighting days in Colorado during summer break from University.

Veterans Memorial in Tonasket

I'm getting close to my end point... I feel like an old nag who has the bit in her mouth and is heading for the barn....

Colville to Republic, MT

Today was all about negotiating Sherman Pass. A daunting 5575 feet with steep roads and narrow shoulders, today was a butt kicker!

It was up and at it early in order to hit the pass while it was still cool. Colville was shrouded in mist and fog which gave it a fairyland effect. From Colville it was on to Kettle Falls where the real Hills began. Taking it slow and easy, it was a steady climb. The countryside was gorgeous and rich with huckleberries. 

At 4 miles from the top I took a lunch break eating my fill of huckleberries which were as large as blueberries. A bike can stop where motorcycles and autos can't, so anytime I saw a good patch I just had my fill.  Huckleberries go for $50 a gallon in this part of the country and I could've easily collected $100 worth in a matter of an hour.

While taking a break in a very desolated part of the highway to the pass, I took a close look at this pole. Something large had been scraping its claws on it and this left me with an eerie feeling. I was glad to be on my way even though my legs were screaming in pain.

 

"A dedication to the youth who built the roads and trails, the fire lookouts and dams and who laid the foundation for growth in our nation,"

 

About halfway up the pass I encountered a historical CCC camp that had been damaged by a storm that had come through about a week earlier. Trees were uprooted, broken off, and cabins destroyed. It must've been quite a storm!

After 26 miles I finally reached the top, totally exhausted, legs shaking, with my lungs gasping. After a short rest, it was a 15 mile run downhill. To my chagrin, Republic, my destination for the night, sat atop a very steep hill so my last peddling of the day was exhausting. Tomorrow it's off bright and early to attack yet another pass. Wish me luck.

Colville, Washington

New friends that I met in Colville, WA

I thought something was wrong with my bike...the "power train" just wasn't working right...yep!  The propulsion system (me) was out of fuel.  After joining Jim Noonan and Elisa Kruse in a Colville cafe for breakfast, I still did not feel refreshed and my thighs felt like "ground round."  "OK Speer, dig deep and quit being a sissy!"  So on my bike I climb...and to my dismay I find that I have a flat tire!  A sharp stone has penetrated and ruined my back tire.  Good news is that I have been carrying a spare for better than 3000 miles.  Taking this opportunity to visit a local bike shop for a changeout, it was here that I met Wes who had me fixed up in no time. 

Breaks my heart but I actually have to change out the tire. Got a rock and it's a little dangerous to go another  300 or 400 miles with the damage done to the tire. I feel like I'm leaving an old friend behind. Thank you Wes for fitting me in. 

 
Spirits raised but still unrefreshed, I explored around town where I found this beautiful sculpture and a farmers market in progress.  Consuming bushel baskets of cherries, peaches, fresh bread, and meeting some very nice folks...I decide to stay in town and refresh before tackling more passes and forests consumed by fire.

Hummm...where to stay?  I turn to my trusty Adventure Cycling Map and see that there is a bicycling hostel just out of town and STRAIGHT UP HILL for 3 miles.  A quick call to Shelley Bacon and I am assured that they have a place for me to stay...with BEDS!  WASHING FACILITIES!! and COOKING ACCOMMODATIONS!!!  WHAT?  IT’S FREE?!!! Shelley tells me "Wait right there and I will come and get you. "Dear Lord, have I died and gone to Heaven?" 

 

Dr. Barry and Shelley Bacon are those fine people who live their faith by offering kindness to others.  Not even bicyclists themselves, they saw the need for a bicycle hostel and finding themselves on one of the main east/west bicycle routes, they needed to secure access to their property via Hotchkiss Road if their idea were to become a reality.  After "12 1/2 years of asking, consulting, baking cookies, and persistently contacting the folks at the Department of Natural Resources," access was granted and the hostel became a reality...as a service not as a business! 

In addition to maintaining a practice in town, Berry and Shelley are involved in "The Africa Projects."  "In the fall of 2011, Barry and Shelley spent four months in Rwanda where Barry taught family medicine at a residency there, and Shelley taught various subjects at a school for the deaf, a Christian school, and at Imbabazi Orphanage." Both plan "to return to Africa yearly and in 5 years to commit a larger portion of the year on an annual basis teaching in Africa."  Information on this peace project can be accessed at:  www.pokotturkanapeaceinitiative.com. 

Dr. and Mrs. Barry Bacon, my hosts for two days in Colville

Here are people who quietly live their faith through their deeds for others.  I am humbled and enriched in their presence.  Barry and Shelley, like so many that I have met during my travels, have enriched my soul and renewed my belief that we live in a wonderful land enriched by the nobility of its citizens.  Rather than tear down the fabric of our institutions and criticize the political processes and representatives, they simply live their lives with honor and do good where they find the need.  It makes me proud to be an American and prouder yet to be a citizen in the world community.  Thank you to all the gracious, wonderful people who have renewed my belief in the kindness of mankind and helped me to fall in love with America again. 

July 22, Pioneer Campground to Beaver Lodge

Wet, cold bicycling today.  Woke up to overcast and impending storms that did not let loose until I was on the road.  Beautiful ride along the North side of what the locals call Pondoray on LeClere road for 30 miles.  Traveled through the Kalispell Indian Reservation where there was an abundance of deer, wild turkeys, and even a herd of buffalo. Smooth sailing and I crossed the bridge at Usk just long enough for breakfast and huckleberry turnovers...wild huckleberries are abundant in the area and where there are huckleberries there are bear.  They kept a low profile...as did I.  

Best Huckleberry Turnovers Ever!

Marie Eldridge (Boo Boo) owner/operator of Boo Boo's Bakery can sure lay out a great meal.  Stop and ask for the Huckleberry Turnovers.  

In Usk, Washington.  Home of the Kalispell Indians as well as an impressive buffalo herd.
Back across the river until reaching the bridge that crossed over to Ione where I hooked up to Hwy 31 and then 20 that took me over the first of four passes that I must navigate.  

LeClere Road near Ione, Wash.

I do not care how good of shape I am in or how many miles I have under my belt... passes are a KILLER!  Stayed at Beaver Lodge for the night and then it is off to Colville where I will see if my road is still closed due to forest fires.  If all is well it will be off to Kettle Falls where I must face two HUGE passes to arrive at Republic.

Yesterday's pass was a baby compared to those I face over the next couple of days.  Hope I run into other campers as I do not relish solo camping in bear country.

Sandpoint, Idaho to the Washington border

Sandpoint, ID

After three hard days of bicycling decided to take it a bit easy today. Started out of Sandpoint relatively late, 9:30 AM, and traveled to Priest River... a timber town in which Andrea lived when she was a little girl. Place looked relatively unchanged since the 50s with the exception of a few convenience stores. Took a picture of the school hoping that this is the one Andrea attended.
 

Pioneer Park Campground, Newport, WA

From Priest River, it was on to Oldtown and then the Washington border. On this trip I've traveled through 12 states as well as the District of Columbia. Washington will be the last of the states that I visit. Known for its steep mountain passes, rigorous bicycling terrain, and now the recent forest fires, this should be a challenge. I hope to complete the trip in the next 10 to 11 days. Wish me luck everyone.

Jon and Hannah

My neighbors for the night as we camp in Washington... First night in the state.