Colville to Republic, MT

Today was all about negotiating Sherman Pass. A daunting 5575 feet with steep roads and narrow shoulders, today was a butt kicker!

It was up and at it early in order to hit the pass while it was still cool. Colville was shrouded in mist and fog which gave it a fairyland effect. From Colville it was on to Kettle Falls where the real Hills began. Taking it slow and easy, it was a steady climb. The countryside was gorgeous and rich with huckleberries. 

At 4 miles from the top I took a lunch break eating my fill of huckleberries which were as large as blueberries. A bike can stop where motorcycles and autos can't, so anytime I saw a good patch I just had my fill.  Huckleberries go for $50 a gallon in this part of the country and I could've easily collected $100 worth in a matter of an hour.

While taking a break in a very desolated part of the highway to the pass, I took a close look at this pole. Something large had been scraping its claws on it and this left me with an eerie feeling. I was glad to be on my way even though my legs were screaming in pain.

 

"A dedication to the youth who built the roads and trails, the fire lookouts and dams and who laid the foundation for growth in our nation,"

 

About halfway up the pass I encountered a historical CCC camp that had been damaged by a storm that had come through about a week earlier. Trees were uprooted, broken off, and cabins destroyed. It must've been quite a storm!

After 26 miles I finally reached the top, totally exhausted, legs shaking, with my lungs gasping. After a short rest, it was a 15 mile run downhill. To my chagrin, Republic, my destination for the night, sat atop a very steep hill so my last peddling of the day was exhausting. Tomorrow it's off bright and early to attack yet another pass. Wish me luck.

Colville, Washington

New friends that I met in Colville, WA

I thought something was wrong with my bike...the "power train" just wasn't working right...yep!  The propulsion system (me) was out of fuel.  After joining Jim Noonan and Elisa Kruse in a Colville cafe for breakfast, I still did not feel refreshed and my thighs felt like "ground round."  "OK Speer, dig deep and quit being a sissy!"  So on my bike I climb...and to my dismay I find that I have a flat tire!  A sharp stone has penetrated and ruined my back tire.  Good news is that I have been carrying a spare for better than 3000 miles.  Taking this opportunity to visit a local bike shop for a changeout, it was here that I met Wes who had me fixed up in no time. 

Breaks my heart but I actually have to change out the tire. Got a rock and it's a little dangerous to go another  300 or 400 miles with the damage done to the tire. I feel like I'm leaving an old friend behind. Thank you Wes for fitting me in. 

 
Spirits raised but still unrefreshed, I explored around town where I found this beautiful sculpture and a farmers market in progress.  Consuming bushel baskets of cherries, peaches, fresh bread, and meeting some very nice folks...I decide to stay in town and refresh before tackling more passes and forests consumed by fire.

Hummm...where to stay?  I turn to my trusty Adventure Cycling Map and see that there is a bicycling hostel just out of town and STRAIGHT UP HILL for 3 miles.  A quick call to Shelley Bacon and I am assured that they have a place for me to stay...with BEDS!  WASHING FACILITIES!! and COOKING ACCOMMODATIONS!!!  WHAT?  IT’S FREE?!!! Shelley tells me "Wait right there and I will come and get you. "Dear Lord, have I died and gone to Heaven?" 

 

Dr. Barry and Shelley Bacon are those fine people who live their faith by offering kindness to others.  Not even bicyclists themselves, they saw the need for a bicycle hostel and finding themselves on one of the main east/west bicycle routes, they needed to secure access to their property via Hotchkiss Road if their idea were to become a reality.  After "12 1/2 years of asking, consulting, baking cookies, and persistently contacting the folks at the Department of Natural Resources," access was granted and the hostel became a reality...as a service not as a business! 

In addition to maintaining a practice in town, Berry and Shelley are involved in "The Africa Projects."  "In the fall of 2011, Barry and Shelley spent four months in Rwanda where Barry taught family medicine at a residency there, and Shelley taught various subjects at a school for the deaf, a Christian school, and at Imbabazi Orphanage." Both plan "to return to Africa yearly and in 5 years to commit a larger portion of the year on an annual basis teaching in Africa."  Information on this peace project can be accessed at:  www.pokotturkanapeaceinitiative.com. 

Dr. and Mrs. Barry Bacon, my hosts for two days in Colville

Here are people who quietly live their faith through their deeds for others.  I am humbled and enriched in their presence.  Barry and Shelley, like so many that I have met during my travels, have enriched my soul and renewed my belief that we live in a wonderful land enriched by the nobility of its citizens.  Rather than tear down the fabric of our institutions and criticize the political processes and representatives, they simply live their lives with honor and do good where they find the need.  It makes me proud to be an American and prouder yet to be a citizen in the world community.  Thank you to all the gracious, wonderful people who have renewed my belief in the kindness of mankind and helped me to fall in love with America again. 

July 22, Pioneer Campground to Beaver Lodge

Wet, cold bicycling today.  Woke up to overcast and impending storms that did not let loose until I was on the road.  Beautiful ride along the North side of what the locals call Pondoray on LeClere road for 30 miles.  Traveled through the Kalispell Indian Reservation where there was an abundance of deer, wild turkeys, and even a herd of buffalo. Smooth sailing and I crossed the bridge at Usk just long enough for breakfast and huckleberry turnovers...wild huckleberries are abundant in the area and where there are huckleberries there are bear.  They kept a low profile...as did I.  

Best Huckleberry Turnovers Ever!

Marie Eldridge (Boo Boo) owner/operator of Boo Boo's Bakery can sure lay out a great meal.  Stop and ask for the Huckleberry Turnovers.  

In Usk, Washington.  Home of the Kalispell Indians as well as an impressive buffalo herd.
Back across the river until reaching the bridge that crossed over to Ione where I hooked up to Hwy 31 and then 20 that took me over the first of four passes that I must navigate.  

LeClere Road near Ione, Wash.

I do not care how good of shape I am in or how many miles I have under my belt... passes are a KILLER!  Stayed at Beaver Lodge for the night and then it is off to Colville where I will see if my road is still closed due to forest fires.  If all is well it will be off to Kettle Falls where I must face two HUGE passes to arrive at Republic.

Yesterday's pass was a baby compared to those I face over the next couple of days.  Hope I run into other campers as I do not relish solo camping in bear country.

Sandpoint, Idaho to the Washington border

Sandpoint, ID

After three hard days of bicycling decided to take it a bit easy today. Started out of Sandpoint relatively late, 9:30 AM, and traveled to Priest River... a timber town in which Andrea lived when she was a little girl. Place looked relatively unchanged since the 50s with the exception of a few convenience stores. Took a picture of the school hoping that this is the one Andrea attended.
 

Pioneer Park Campground, Newport, WA

From Priest River, it was on to Oldtown and then the Washington border. On this trip I've traveled through 12 states as well as the District of Columbia. Washington will be the last of the states that I visit. Known for its steep mountain passes, rigorous bicycling terrain, and now the recent forest fires, this should be a challenge. I hope to complete the trip in the next 10 to 11 days. Wish me luck everyone.

Jon and Hannah

My neighbors for the night as we camp in Washington... First night in the state.

July 20, Sandpoint, ID

After a long and exhausting trek through Montana I have at last reached Idaho! Furthermore, TODAY I REACHED THE CENTURY MARK. A hat given to me by my daughter was in recognition of Jennifer doing a 100 miler... A "century ride ."  At long last I've earned the right to wear this hat, a gift from Jennifer, because today I bicycled over 100 miles within a 12 hour time frame...much of it going over steep terrain, with variable winds often in my face, over occasional isolated dirt roads, and carrying 50 pounds of gear... I GOT IT DONE!  Okay Jen, I now belong to your century club.

Runs along Cabinet Mountains Wilderness...getting close to the Idaho Border.

Departing Libby, Montana at 6:30 AM this morning, I bicycled some of the most scenic terrain I've yet observed. Leaving Libby, I climbed the base of Samater, Scenery, and Flagstaff Mountains and followed the Kootenai River to Kootenai Falls. From there it was due south over steep and undulating terrain until arriving at Bull Lake and passing through Ross Creek Cedar Grove Scenic Area. It was a very hard pull along the Bull River as I passed around Pillick Ridge and past Government Mountain. After hitting a T in the road, I took 200 W. until reaching the turnoff for Huron. This side loop was done to avoid traffic on narrow roads but turned into steep dirt roads where I saw an abundance of game. Prime bear country with NO traffic necessitated the use of my Bear-whistle pretty much the entire distance. While uncomfortable regarding the possibility of bear, one could not help but be captivated by the truly pristine forests. 

Bear Country!!

Rejoining Highway 200 at Clark Fork, there was a magnificent view of Lake Pend Oreille which I followed around through the towns of East Hope, Hope, Kootenai, and Ponderay, until reaching my destination of Sandpoint.  The road from East Hope to Sandpoint was under construction, gravel, and narrow.  It felt marvelous to reach Sandpoint!

I now have a bit of a dilemma as my route travels right through the ongoing fires in Washington State.  I will study the maps tonight and determine how best to proceed on this now the home stretch.

The upcoming elevation changes

Libby, MT

Lake, bridge, and smoky skies

Lake Koocanusa

 I woke to gusting winds this morning and knew right away it was going to be a long, hard slog if I were to reach Libby, Montana today. Sharp inclines, steep drops, strong headwinds, these were my companions on today's ride.  Leaving Rexford without breakfast and no towns until reaching Libby, Montana, I had to rely on freeze dried meals and trail mix. Bicycling along Lake Koocanusa offered stunning scenery and smoke-filled skies.  Fires in Washington state have filled the area with smoke.
From Libby, it's on to Clark Fork and ultimately Sandpoint, Idaho.  I hope to get an early start tomorrow.

Rexford, MT

I was up and at it early in order to get a start on today's ride while it was still cool. Dave Ahlansberg, the veteran who served with 173 Airborne in Vietnam and whom I had met yesterday, got up to see me off, and we chatted for about an hour before my departure.  Dave served, left the army, then returned to become a sergeant major before retiring. We reminisced about the old days, how fortunate we were in life and in our chosen spouses, and how proud we were of our children. We both agreed that life has been very fine and sweet.

From whitefish it was a quick 35 miles to Fortine, Montana (population 300) where I enjoyed an absolutely wonderful breakfast! From there it was on to Eureka.
Next came Rexford, where I found a US Forest Service campground, and with the senior discount, came to a grand total of six dollars. Set up my Trek Light Hammock for the night, and it's off to Libby, Montana, tomorrow bright and early.

Home for the night Rexford, Montana