New friends - Huntington, Indiana

Near Zanesville, Indiana

The winds have been absolutely brutal on this phase of the trip. It's beautiful country, fairly flat, and would generally be easy bicycling if it weren't for the wind blowing in my face at 30 miles an hour.  I decided to hotel it tonight in Huntington, Indiana. The people here are incredibly friendly! I went to a coffee shop to get a latte, asked about hotels, and the proprietor directed me to a bicycle friendly hotel that only charges bicyclists $30 per night! On the way to the hotel I was stopped by a gentleman who turned out to be the chief of police and who was asking about my trip.  He said both he and the Mayor are big bicyclists and invited me out for a beer and dinner.  I will let you know how it goes. As I have traveled through a number of towns, I end up making the news. I guess folks are fascinated with a stupid old man riding a bicycle across country!  In any event, there have been about three towns where my picture has been taken and I've been told that I would be the front page in the next newspaper. I'll have to go back and see if I can find the articles sometime down the road.  I believe I will take a rest day as my knees are pretty sore from peddling into the wind. This could change if the wind turns the right direction, bicycle weather is perfect, and I get antsy to hit the road.  We will see.

One never knows how, when, or where new friends will be made.  In this instance in Huntington, Indiana, I was approached by the police chief who is an avid bicyclist.  After chatting for a bit he invited me for an evening out for dinner, beer, and socializing with his friends.  Dinner was attended by the mayor, his wonderful wife, the police chief, and another avid bicyclist. I'm ashamed to say I would destroy their names if I tried to post them at this time so I will have to do that later.  We had a great evening of dining, drinking, and telling bicycle stories. We traveled many of the same trails, had many of the same experiences, and all in all it was just a wonderful evening.  I was very touched in that the mayor presented me with a medallion that will be a wonderful memento from my visit in Huntington, Indiana, and a great keepsake from the bicycle trip where I have made so many new friends.  The mayor invited me join a morning prayer breakfast where I will have the opportunity to meet more of the citizens from this wonderful city.  All in all it was a great evening, full of laughter, and a sharing of like interests. What a joy and only an experience that one can gain by stepping out of their comfort zone and traveling across this great land at 10 miles an hour.

 

Into Indiana

Indiana Stateline

 Wind is severe, very difficult bicycling, sore knees, be glad when I get to Monroeville!

As soon as I pulled into Monroeville, the town librarians made a point to direct me to the hostel where I would have a roof over my head this evening.  They were so nice and caring!

Needless to say, upon arriving at Monroeville I was totally beat and I must confess that I look better than I actually felt at the moment this picture was taken.

These gentleman made certain that I was comfortably situated at the hostel. The gentleman on the left served with the 196 infantry, was twice wounded before returning home to resume his life in Monroeville.  The one on the left loves old cars and travels all over the United States to show his Hudson.  Thank you citizens of Monroeville for your graciousness, hospitality, and great accommodations.

Ottawa, OH

Another storm

I got caught in the middle of a storm in Ottawa, Ohio.  Asked Denny, who works for the Putnam County Fairgrounds, for directions to the local hotel but found that it seemed to be closed for the season. I biked back over to the fairgrounds to see if I could hole up in one of their barns. Denny, another road angel, was gracious enough to let me use one of their offices where there is a couch. I'm out of the rain, out of the cold, and about to get into a warm down sleeping bag.  Really too bad that I couldn't keep going, the wind was coming from the east and I was making great time. Knocked out 20 miles in no time at all but had another 45 to 50 miles to go to reach my destination.  I was pretty well frozen, so I had to find a place to stay. I'll stay here for the night, see how tomorrow looks and attempt to make it to Monroeville, Indiana.  It's amazing how gracious people are when times are tough. I will always have a soft spot in my heart for the citizens of Ottawa, Ohio, and the staff of Putnam County Fairgrounds.

To the Putnam County Fairgrounds staff:

Kindness and fellowship come in many forms but the most gracious form arises when a fellow being recognizes that another is in trouble and steps in to assist.  Recently retired, I decided to travel across United States by bicycle.  The purpose of this trip is to rediscover America as well as to honor nine fallen soldiers with whom I served in Vietnam as I carry their names across this nation.  You might say this is a trip of enlightenment, and one where I am rediscovering America and how great and giving a country we really are. While traveling on highway 224 I hit a terrible rainstorm and very cold weather. I approached Denny Kuhlman, an employee for Putnam County Fairgrounds, and asked for directions to the nearest hotel.   Upon arriving at the hotel I found it to be closed and therefore found myself with no place to stay.  I approached Denny to see if I could set up my tent in one of the barns. Not only did he offer such assistance but he opened up one of your office buildings where I might stay for the night.  Not stopping there, he made certain that I had transportation to a restaurant where I might get something to eat and offered his own personal heater so that I would have some warmth through the night as well.  I just want to send my heartfelt thanks for the hospitality shown to me by Denny, employees of the Putnam County Fairgrounds, as well as the Ottawa community as a whole.  It is communities such as yours that make America great. I have supplied my blog so that if you wish you can follow my travels across the United States. I have discovered, in my trip so far, the gracious hospitality that so many folks across our great nation so willingly offer as the need arises.  Ottawa represents some of the best of what I've seen so far. It is obvious that the citizens of this community show genuine concern, hospitality, and an abundance of graciousness.  Thank you for opening your doors to me, and I do hope that someday my wife and I may return the favor. Avid RVers, when not bicycling, I plan to take my wife back here at some later date so that she might meet the people of this wonderful town.  Again, thank you so very much.

Stephan Speer

Decatur, Illinois

Crankyspoke.blogspot.com

Managed to bicycle about 75 miles today. Conditions were perfect, wind was at my back, not too hot or too cold, and it was just a beautiful day for a great ride. Traffic was reasonable, back roads were beautiful, and I even passed an ADM plant today.

Started out in New London, Ohio, and finished up and Findlay, Ohio. Could've gone another 25 miles easily but I would've ended up in the middle of nowhere. Storm is on its way and did not want to get caught in the open. I would've loved to have done a century, felt great when I quit and could've kept going.  Should not be long before I'm in Indiana. Once I hit Monroeville, Indiana, I will be on the Northern Tier and the maps will be much easier to follow. Google bicycle maps leave a lot to be desired! Finally just said to heck with it and kept going west. Great day for biking. I'll see how this storm affects things tomorrow.

Confession time

I will not name names so as to protect the innocent. But this is the story:  on this trip I have approached churches on two occasions to see if I could pitch my tent on their lawn when a storm was coming my way. On both occasions my request was declined. Two days ago while traveling across Ohio I encountered a severe storm. Strong winds, very cold, and heavy rain were my companions. To say that I was miserable does not even begin to capture my feelings. I looked at one of the apps on my phone that shows campgrounds in the area. I was pleased to see that 20 miles away from where I was, while the storm was hitting its peak, there was a campground.  I called them, told the proprietor that I was frozen to the quick, and asked if they could put me up for the night.  He readily agreed recognizing that I was in trouble. But in the course of the conversation the proprietor brought to my attention "we are an alternative lifestyle campground."  I had no idea what he was talking about.  Short of drawing a picture for me, he pointed out that they practiced a gay lifestyle.  I asked if it would be a problem if I stayed there in light of the fact that I was straight.  The proprietor said no problem at all, we understand your situation and will be glad to assist you in anyway we can. They were extremely hospitable, friendly, and made me feel at home.  Now let's consider, I had two churches turn me down and an "alternative lifestyle campground" accept me with open arms. I believe there may be a biblical message here. I have pondered this for the last 70 miles as I've considered these turns of events.  For me, this experience has enlightened and opened my awareness to kindness in its many forms.  To the folks at the alternative lifestyle campground, you know who you are, and you have my sincere thanks. The lessons garnered from this experience will remain with me and I hope guide me to make good decisions when it comes to kindness and hospitality in the future.

New London, OH

Yesterday was a tough bicycling day. The wind blew straight out of the west, there was heavy rain, and a fair amount of traffic.  Places to stay were few and far between.  I found a campground with rustic cabins, a little bit of heat, and a few amenities. It's early in the season so finding such facilities is a bit difficult.  I feel myself getting stronger each day; my legs feel like iron now, my knees still give me a little bit of a problem but it is manageable.  Biggest challenge that I've seen so far is that when it is raining like crazy, the wind is roaring, and there is nowhere or anyone around, one is simply on his own and dependent upon his own wits.  Looks like more rain today and it is still pretty cold. Still drying out from yesterday. May have a rest day today; still deciding.

Home Sweet Home for tonight

You never know who you'll meet

I do believe the most fun experiences related to traveling by bicycle has to do with the people you meet. Case in point, Jenny Etain and her Turkish boyfriend were a couple that I met in a coffee shop in Ohio. They had returned from three years in Turkey and were home visiting Jenny's family.  They overheard me asking for directions for a bicycle safe route, intervened, and offered the use of their computer to investigate options.  Soft-spoken, very gracious, and very approachable, I immediately took to them.  In the course of our conversation I asked what they did. Jenny responded "I'm a belly dancer."  "No way!"  Yes, that was indeed the case and she's an artist. Jenny showed me some of the films of her dancing, and needless to say she's very graceful, very pretty, and very talented.  It was a pleasure meeting you both. I wish you safe travels, great dancing, and the love of the world.

Lt. Carr

I met Mr. Carr who had been a lieutenant with the fourth division in Vietnam one year before I arrived in country.  He served in the same areas where I served, therefore fed the mosquitoes and every other insect known to man that ultimately fed on me a year later.  Perhaps our only accomplishment was we kept the insect species vibrant, healthy, and perpetuating into the future.

Into Ohio

What great people! Doug and Terry went way out of their way to make certain that I was fed, kept warm, and enjoyed my stay in their lovely home.  Their two daughters are not only pretty but witty and very good bike riders.  Doug posted a great video that covered their ride through the Chesapeake and Ohio towpath as well as the Allegheny. It was so fun to watch!  I really enjoyed my stay here, and it was so nice that in the morning Doug rode with me to assure that I got off safely.  Traffic has been a bit of a challenge here in Ohio.  Today I hope to hit smaller roads, confront less traffic, and be able to relax as I did on the bicycle trails.  Doug and Terry, thank you for a great time at your place. I may have just been hungry but I do believe that was the best spaghetti that I ever ate!

The Kempthorne Family
My Warm Showers hosts in Homeworth, OH

Home sweet home for the night--Doug's "office"

Someone, without naming who, bought my breakfast because it was always their desire to ride across the United States. I guess the waitress told them about my trip and they bought my breakfast as they were leaving. I had no opportunity to thank my mysterious benefactor.  I in turn paid for another breakfast without telling them who it was.

April 22, 2014

In Weirton, West Virginia, I met my first "road angels." What was really nice about this was that I did not seek them out, but they sought me out recognizing that I was in need of help.  Well experienced in travel, they can see when a fellow traveler is experiencing problems.  Unfortunately, Weirton, West Virginia, while very beautiful, is not bicycle friendly.  From the standpoint of roads, there is no shoulder and those present are in disrepair, signage is minimal, and the traffic heavy.  I left from Weirton rather late, and I attempted to travel from Weirton to E. Liverpool on Hwy 2.  It simply wasn't safe.  Don and Sharon Green intervened, welcomed me into their home and their lives, give me a place to stay for the night, and then helped me plan a course through the rough spots.  They have agreed to convey me to East Liverpool (a distance of some 10 to 15 miles) and from there I will resume my ride.  What fun people - and kindred spirits. They're incredibly well-traveled, resourceful, and possess a strong business spirit. Don is a hyperkinetic free spirit loaded with ideas, has a number of inventions (some of which are laying around the house), and is in the process of building an airplane in their basement.  Sharon has done a little bit of everything from teaching to being a booking agent for a number of well-known groups, and a partner in the business that they run out of their home.  They have decided to sell out, buy a boat, and sail around the world.  They see this as a great escape, a way to refresh their creativity.  Totally fun folks!

The Montour to the Panhandle Trail, PA

Definitely do not drink the water in McDonald, Pennsylvania!

No room at the inn

 

 

 

 

Well, through all of these miles I finally encountered my first lack of hospitality.  Asked if I could pitch my tent on their lawn and was turned down.   Let's make sure we never do that at Grace United Methodist Church.

(Five miles down the trail, someone from the church called my cell phone and they had changed their mind, but it was too late for me.  This might help the next cyclist who comes along.)

Pittsburgh, PA, & Montour Trail

The rejuvenation is incredible up river but down river as you get closer to Pittsburgh, you see a lot of the residual factories where steel and coal were processed.  The impact on the landscape is striking. This said, Pittsburgh is a beautiful city.  This was my first visit ever, and I found the people to be friendly and very helpful.   I've traveled far enough now that when folks ask where I started from, they are shocked when I say "Washington DC."  All dirt trails from Washington DC to Cumberland and then Cumberland to Pittsburgh certainly presented challenges.  Certainly Washington DC to Cumberland was the most challenging with very bumpy, rocky, rutted trails.  If you plan to take this trip, plan on no more than 20 to 25 miles per day.  Plan to camp at remote campsites, where you will need water, food, and the appropriate gear.  Some sites do have handpumps, but there is a very strong iodine smell in the water.  This said, this was a trip of a lifetime!

Well, I have now done the Chesapeake & Ohio Towpath, the Great Allegheny Passage, and now I plan to do the Montour and Panhandle Trails to reach Raccoon Creek Campground.  This is a distance of about 40 miles, uncharted routes, and I will be flying by the seat of my pants.  Looks to be a nice day, a good day for a ride!

 

So far everything has been uphill. I know there's got to be downhill somewhere along this trail.

Easter Morning

What a wonderful surprise...they made breakfast for me as well. How's that for an Easter treat? People here are so gracious, so wonderful, so nice. Thank you for a wonderful breakfast to the start of a beautiful Easter day.

"Come on over for coffee"

And here's the cook

April 19, 2014

Traveled to West Newton today traveling through beautiful forests on a path that followed the Youghiogheny River. Beauty knows no bounds. In West Newton contacted Youghiogheny Canoe Outfitters to see if they offered camping. They did and a more gracious people would be hard to find. Offered camping, family hospitality, and a welcoming spirit. They do not sell beer but offered one to show their hospitality.  Their wares consist of canoeing, bait, tackle, rentals, and a great welcoming spirit. Not only do they work the river but have received civic recognition for river cleanup and community services. When biking the GAP and traveling through West Newton do not pass up the YOUGHIOGHENY CANOE OUTFITTERS.  Thank you Cuffy (Orlando Dolash) and Dominic Berarducci for your generous spirit and kind hospitality.

Stopped to help a cyclist change a flat tire:

Watch out world, Michelle knows how to patch tires now

I'm falling in love with America again... After Vietnam I had a beef with Uncle Sam, politicians, and our whole approach to foreign interventions. But what I have discovered so far is that America remains beautiful, the people resilient and loaded with optimism in spite of hard financial times.  Passing through Pennsylvania coal country, there are whole towns impacted by mine closings. Even so, they dust off, proceed with life, and find a way to make ends meet. They ask for nothing yet are some of the most giving and generous people that this Great Land possesses.  Chesapeake and Ohio and the great Allegheny Passage offer a source of income and unbounded beauty.  These people are finding their way, and if they can I certainly can too.

April 18. 2014

Great Day

Rode 50+ miles on nice gravel trail

I don't know how they do it, but their bread is almost as good as Grandma's. I think the microflora must be in their hands because it's got to be more than just the yeast. It was terrific!  Just like Grandma Arvish used to make.

These trails just go on and on. Beautiful countryside loaded with turkey, deer, and I even saw a mink.

This is where I stayed in Rockwood Pennsylvania. It's a hostel that was converted from an old grocery store by a coal miner who found himself out of work with the closure of the local mine. It's really got a tremendous amount of character and at $25 a night, it's a steal. The mattresses were comfortable beyond words and I slept like the dead last night. Trains do go by, or at least that's what they told me, but I'll be darned if I could hear them. Maybe I was a little beat!

Dateline Rockwood Pennsylvania: this is the local hang out for all of the old guys who live in this town. You can find out everything that's going on for 100 mile radius. Good bunch of guys, a lot of fun, this seems to be the coffee hole for morning discussions.  I would call them the unofficial city Council for the entire area.

I've learned through experience it pays to marry up. This is the case with this gentleman...when he lost his job in the coal mines, his wife said "hey let's buy that old store down the street and turn it into a hostel."  "What's a hostel?"  He followed his wife's recommendations, bought the place and fixed it up, does a great business, and it's a wonderful place to stay. Really a cool guy and I enjoyed talking to him.  The "unofficial city Council" was quick to point out:  "It was his wife's idea."